Bacchus & Co. was exactly what we needed. After a hectic

and stressful morning that started way too early, we headed over to Bacchus’

first location, which opened three years ago in Bell Tower Shops in Fort Myers

(a second location opened last year in downtown Fort Myers). With owner Shannon

Yates’ savory dishes, eye-catching décor and attentive but low-key service,

Bacchus delivered. Need to get out of the office with a friend or co-worker and

treat yourself? Want to show a client or job candidate a different take on life

along the Gulf that reflects the area’s growing sophistication? Bacchus could

work well for either occasion.

What we ate: Soul-comforting bistro fare. The one-page lunch

menu, which changes every four to six weeks, showcases inventive dishes without

intimidating diners. Starters included the Bacchus board ($15) with assorted

cheeses, fruits, olives and Tuscan bread and Prince Edward Island mussels in a

garlic herb broth ($11). We chose a cup of the soup of the day ($3)—an

enjoyable cream of tomato. We feared that on a hot summer day the soup would be

too heavy. Instead, it was light and creamy, with a hint of spices, and served alongside

Parmesan shavings and a slice of sourdough bread.

The menu features entrées such as a frittata with ham, bell

peppers and feta cheese crumbles and the pizza du jour with roast beef, Vidalia

onion and pepper jack cheese, and sandwiches including a sautéed salmon,

chicken breast with bacon and mozzarella, and tuna salad on croissant, all $8.

The Bacchus steak with homemade fries is the most expensive item on the lunch

menu, at $22. But we found the appetizers and salads, some of which are

available in half portions, too tempting. We turned the crab cake appetizer

($10) into our main entrée. The two crab cakes were small but surprisingly

filling. Each was lightly breaded and full of crabmeat, and was garnished with

a tasty roasted red pepper coulis.

Wavering between the mozzarella salad, accompanied by

mandarin oranges and a grape tomato vinaigrette ($7), and the seared sea

scallop salad ($9), we consulted our waiter, who recommended the scallops as

one of the most popular dishes. Great advice. Four lightly seared scallops were

served in a salad bowl with mixed greens, bleu cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and

citrus vinaigrette. The salad was delicious, but so large that we couldn’t

finish it.

As a result, we had to say no to the tempting dessert lineup

of bananas Foster, white chocolate cheesecake, a dark chocolate crème brûlée

and the ubiquitous chocolate volcano cake (prepared with melted chocolate in

the center), which range from $6 to $10.

Atmosphere: Wine-cellar vibe that begs for you to relax,

even if just for an hour. Bacchus was the Greek god of wine and rev-elry, and

the restaurant’s name is no coincidence. Wine is the focus, albeit more for the

dinner and late-night crowd than for lunchtime diners (our drinks of choice

were tea and water with lemon). A wooden wine rack spans the length of one

wall, and wine crates and boxes are stacked on the floor and atop shelves.

Indoors, the restaurant seats about 45 at square wood tables

with black linens or at the mammoth bar constructed with stainless steel,

copper and nail heads. The bar—and the kitchen behind it—are visible from any

seat. An outdoor courtyard offers several tables for dining under umbrellas,

and a nice spot to hold an evening reception or cocktail party.

Service: Efficient but non-intrusive. Clad in black shirts

and pants with white chef’s aprons, the waitstaff seems to blend into the décor

but appears at the right time. We arrived at 12:15 p.m. on a weekday and were

seated immediately. Our waiter was helpful in recommending dishes and reappeared

without us asking to fill our glasses. Just the kind of attention we

wanted—without pressure.

Power Quotient: Hotspot for power lunchers, particularly

young professionals. We spotted a foursome in shorts and polo shirts with their

company logo, women and men in business suits plus a few older couples taking a

break from shopping.

Bacchus & Co.

Bell Tower Shops, Fort Myers. (239) 415-9463. Lunch: 11

a.m.-3 p.m. Dinner: 5-11 p.m. Credit cards. Easy parking in the shopping center

parking lot. Reservations taken. www.bacchusandco.com.