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| Notes from Nalchik Suzanne Specht |
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Editor's note: Suzanne Specht, assistant director of the Small Business Development Center at Florida Gulf Coast University, joined a group of Southwest Florida businesspeople on a trip in October to Russia, where she was asked to teach an entrepreneurship course. We asked Specht, who also serves on the Gulfshore Business editorial board, to keep a journal of her experience to share with our readers. Last year, I received an e-mail from the founder of Friends from Abroad, a nonprofit organization of businesspeople and professionals that equips and encourages individuals to become more effective leaders. Nolen Rollins was proposing that I travel to Nalchik, Russia, to teach university students about small-business entrepreneurship and ethics. My curiosity was piqued. I love to travel, I love to meet new people, I love to teach about small business. Russia-the beautiful city of Moscow, Red Square, St. Basil's Cathedral, the Kremlin. I was definitely interested, but where in the world is Nalchik? I Googled. Nalchik is in the Caucasus region of southern Russia. It's the capital of the Kabardino-Balkar Republic near Chechnya, bordering the Republic of Georgia. The people here are Kabards, Balkars, Chechens and Ossentians. In October 2005, nearly 150 militants were involved in an attack on police and security facilities in Nalchik. Close to 200 people were killed. Chechen rebels claimed involvement. My friends say that I am adventurous, but this seemed a bit extreme. I decided to contact Lynn Doty, a realtor with Keller Williams. Lynn had just come back from a similar trip to Russia in April and already she wanted to head off again in October. She marveled at the friendly people. She showed me her spectacular pictures of the Russian landmarks. She described her trip as life-changing. With a sense of adventure-and a touch of trepidation-I decided to go. The host for the trip was the Kabardino-Balkar Business Institute, a private, undergraduate institute with more than 500 students. It offers the basic principles of business and provides, twice annually, educational business conferences with American leaders and educators. KBBI's rector was very keen for the students to learn about small-business entrepreneurship, as this is perceived as the most likely engine for economic change there. Friday, Oct. 6 At Southwest Florida International Airport, I met the rest of the team, including David Diamond, president of DeAngelis Diamond Construction. This was his fourth trip to Russia, he said, and he raved about it. My enthusiasm was building. I got a surprise in Atlanta when I checked in for the flight to Moscow. The travel agency that initiated my visa application, a long and very involved process, made a huge mistake on my return date-it was a week short. I had planned, after teaching at the business institute, to take a vacation around Sochi, a city on the Black Sea. The visa mishap eliminated that possibility. It takes 10 hours to fly to Moscow from Atlanta and I prayed to sit next to someone interesting. I love to talk to people on airplanes; knowing that they'll likely never see you again somehow gives people permission to really open up. I sat beside Mr. W.C. Hill from Mississippi. He was traveling to the Russian Social Assistance Homes, a foster care and home for unwed Russian mothers that he and his wife started a few years ago. Hill talked about the need for social programs in Russia. Orphanages are in high demand, he said, but the government's burdensome regulations make starting one nearly impossible. He sold his bookstores in Mississippi and started this home for unwed mothers. Amazing! Sheremetyevo Airport in Moscow was chaotic, to say the least-and I don't speak Russian. No one in our group did. (The Russian language is based upon the Cyrillic, not the Roman alphabet, so trying to decipher a sign or menu is nearly impossible.) Thankfully, translators met us and accompanied us everywhere. After surviving a Moscow taxi ride, we made it to the Hotel Ukraina, one of the most famous hotels in Moscow. It opened in 1957 and is situated on the bank of the Moskva River in front of the House of Russian Government-located in the administration and business center of the city. (An interesting note: When you check into a hotel in Russia, you turn in your passport and must be registered in that town or city within three business days, which allows the government to keep track of citizens and tourists. The metal detectors in the hotel lobby also caught my attention. I was definitely not in Florida anymore.) Our agenda for the rest of the afternoon consisted of sightseeing and shopping. Not surprisingly, Moscow is a huge city filled with brand-name companies. Seeing a Russian McDonald's was a definite Kodak moment for us. I was enthralled by the buildings and sites-Red Square, the Kremlin, the beautiful churches. Brides in wedding gowns posed everywhere by historic landmarks, waiting to get their pictures taken. Evidently it is a tradition. Sunday, Oct. 8 Upon departure from the Domodedovo Airport in Moscow, we each had to go through a full-body X-ray machine. Walk right in, don't breathe for a minute, wait for the light to go off, and then see an X-ray of your entire body. That was bizarre, but in light of local history somehow seemed appropriate. With a two-hour flight, preparation for my seminars was in order. Business ethics and small-business entrepreneurship were the topics that the students were interested in, so I developed a one-and-a-half-hour program for each. Members of our group would teach each session three times a day for two days. That afternoon we arrived at Mineralnye Vody Airport-said to be the most corrupt airport in Russia. When traveling anywhere in Russia, one must have documents-passport, visa, registration papers-handy at all times, in case you get stopped by the police. Fortunately, we were stopped only once and had all of our papers in order. I've heard that corruption is rampant in Russia, and government officials and police are reputed to be the main culprits. For instance, when officials weighed the baggage of one person in our group, one official said it was within guidelines, another said it wasn't. It was confusing, and it was definitely good we had Russian translators. I was warned that bribes are very common just to make the process go more smoothly. Monday, Oct. 9 Finally, the day arrived to teach. Upon arriving at Kabardino-Balkar Business Institute, I felt like a rock star. As Rollins introduced each business professional in our group, the students applauded, smiled and cheered. But my excitement had turned to anxiety. Even with an excellent translator, I worried that certain concepts might get lost in translation. The first seminar was in business ethics, and the students jumped to their feet, applauding my entrance. American students don't do that. Plus, they were incredibly well dressed compared to American students-no sweatpants, no tennis shoes, hardly any jeans. Initially, we discussed the current state of affairs regarding business ethics, and to frame the conversation I gave them an ethics quiz. We considered where values come from, how people determine right and wrong, and what the students felt about their current status. The students asked about American ethics and commented how similar our values are: family, friends and a will to survive. One significant difference is that economic conditions, including high taxes, governmental control and exorbitant interest rates, have a very negative influence on businesses in Russia. Small-business owners need to do whatever they can to survive. In seminars, rewards and giveaways are important in creating a positive engagement of ideas. One student-a very tall young man-stated that his ethics were really bad; he said he would lie and cheat to get whatever he needed. But he also said he wanted to change. I gave him an FGCU backpack for his honesty. The students asked tons of questions. I tried to steer away from controversial topics, but overall, they engaged me in a delightful conversation. Tuesday, Oct. 10 My next seminar was on one of my favorite topics-small-business entrepreneurship. Since the break-up of the Communist government, Russia has tried to create a more capitalist environment for economic development, and small business is no exception. More than half of the students in each of my three sessions wanted to start a small business. Two female Muslim students wanted to open a women's clothing store. One student wanted to open a music shop. The students commented on the many obstacles they face: Credit is very expensive and generally short term; 18 percent interest rates are not unusual. Most Russians can't collateralize a loan. It's difficult to get help, especially to evaluate a business plan. There is no "Russian Small Business Administration," as the government doesn't promote access to credit or small-business counseling. Mafia activities are rampant, and governmental corruption is evidently extensive. Still, these students have the desire to start businesses and want a different frame of reference than their parents and grandparents have had. Wednesday, Oct. 11 Our last day at the business institute was one of cultural entertainment. After the final group session in the morning, the students presented native dances and songs in an outstanding show. That night, instructors had the opportunity to stay with a student and his or her family. My hosts were named-in the Americanized versions-Bob, the student, his mother, Olga, and their friend, Albert, a local banker. Russians are known for bending over backward to accommodate guests with a big spread of food, an occasional shot of vodka, laughter, an occasional shot of vodka, conversation, plus the occasional shot of vodka. Hospitality and building relationships with people, I learned, are highly valued in Russia. Thursday and Friday, Oct. 12-13 Getting ready to head back to the United States. Despite considerable efforts, the wheels of the Russian bureaucracy would not turn to revise my visa. My feelings are of sadness as I pack my souvenirs and head back to the Mineralnye Vody Airport, but I have many wonderful memories of Russia to treasure-the culture, the people, the wonderful students. When I return in April-yes, I'm going back-I'll be able to build on those experiences-and finally take that vacation to Sochi. |
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