Getaways
Mary Alice Kellogg
The birthplace of jazz, 40 museums, and home to the oldest opera house and the best eating in America, New Orleans has a singular blend of rich culture and laissez-faire ambiance that is not only alive and well, but thriving. All beloved Big Easy favorites-from the French Quarter to the Garden District to the bustling riverfront-are joyfully (and safely) open. May heralds an extra bonus: the New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival (www.neworleansonline.com).

SEE: Yes, take a streetcar; they're running again. Stroll the riverfront (with a stop at Harrah's), the Garden District and the French Quarter. The National World War II Museum (www.ddaymuseum.org) commemorates the war's amphibious invasions, which were made possible by a small New Orleans boat company. The Odgen Museum of Southern Art (www.ogdenmuseum.org) has the world's largest collection of art from the region.

DINE: Start your day at Café Du Monde (www.cafe dumonde.com) for chicory coffee and fresh beignets. (Tip: Don't wear black, which acts as a magnet for powdered sugar.) Indulge in gracious and elegant French Quarter dining at Arnaud's (www.arnauds.com), or contemporary Louisiana eats at Herbsaint (www.herbsaint.com). Galatoire's (www.galatoires.com) remains the Establishment's cuisine stop, especially for a power lunch downstairs. The Gumbo Shop (www.gumboshop.com) offers Creole specialties in an 18th century townhouse.

STAY: The Windsor Court Hotel (www.windsorcourt hotel.com) is one of New Orleans' grandest and warmest hostelries, and is walking distance to the French Quarter and burgeoning arts and garden districts. Its New Orleans Grill is a gastronomic treat. The hotel's $8 million art collection reflects the city's commitment to creativity, and the concierge is one of the best in town.

SHOP: The French Quarter has all the unique galleries and boutiques you'd ever need. At Maskarade (www.the maskstore.com), 45 artisans create unusual masks for Mardi Gras or any other occasion. Trashy Diva (www.trashydiva.com) features flattering reproductions of flirty dresses from the 1890s to the 1940s. Indulge your Southern belle with hats and flapper dresses at Fleur de Paris (www.fleurdeparis.net), and learn to cast a spell at the Voodoo Authentica Cultural Center & Collection (www.voodooshop.com).

INSIDER TIP: You must have music. Jazz, zydeco, Dixieland and all notes in between flourish in New Orleans as nowhere else. Hear old favorites and new at Preservation Hall (www.preservationhall.com), Tipitina's (www.tip itinas.com), Vaughn's Lounge, Snug Harbor Jazz Bistro (www.snugjazz.com) and Mid-City Lanes Rock 'N' Bowl.

Laissez les bons temps rouler!