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Getaways

By: Mary Alice Kellogg


Mountain Mecca

Postcard-perfect Asheville, N.C., has a strong arts and crafts tradition, Blue Ridge mountain air, history, architecture and America’s grandest estate—which makes today’s McMansions look like tenements. Everything’s in bloom this month, too, so go for some graceful hospitality. (www.exploreasheville.com)

SEE: First up has to be George Vanderbilt’s regal 250-room Biltmore Estate. This icon of America’s Gilded Age remains America’s largest house, with gardens designed by Frederick Law Olmsted and an on-premises winery. Then explore downtown Asheville’s rich, preserved architectural legacy—original Art Deco, Beaux Arts and Neoclassical buildings. Be sure to stop at the Smith-McDowell House Museum, Asheville’s oldest home, and revel in the Asheville Art Museum’s bounty of American art from the 20th and 21st centuries.

STAY: The Grove Park Inn Resort & Spa is authentic and romantic, with in-room fireplaces and Jacuzzis. The four-diamond Inn on Biltmore Estate is an elegant hostelry; the only one on the grounds and worth a stay.

DINE: June is prime time to sample the region’s farm-to-table restaurants, where talented chefs work magic with the bountiful local seasonal ingredients. Among the highlights: Bouchon for Lyon French, Laurey’s Catering and Gourmet-to-go for sophisticated comfort vittles, Zambra for Spanish tapas, Tupelo Honey Café for Southern fusion.

SHOP: Asheville is a primo destination for lovers of arts and crafts, traditional and cutting-edge. Begin in the River Arts District, which rolls out the welcome mat the second weekend in June with its Studio Stroll. The Grove Arcade ARTS & Heritage Gallery dates from the late 1890s heyday and has crafts, stores and music of the Blue Ridge. Woolworth Walk downtown exhibits more than 150 artists in the 1930s-era Woolworth Co. building. Shop for original gifts and artworks at Biltmore Village, near the estate, in a charming village atmosphere.

INSIDER’S TIP: Asheville has a strong literary heritage, too. Visit native son Thomas Wolfe’s boyhood home downtown—infamously immortalized in Look Homeward, Angel. The stone angel that inspired the novel is in a cemetery in nearby Hendersonville, a short hop from the Carl Sandburg Home National Historic Site.